“The best way to explore the FENDI archives is through the Fendi wardrobes” – Kim Jones
“探索FENDI历史的最佳方式便是重温Fendi家的衣橱”——Kim Jones
For Autumn/Winter 2022, Kim Jones refracts two iconic FENDI collections through a distinctly contemporary lens, reconfiguring the past for today and considering the house’s signatures with a fresh perspective.
2022秋冬系列，Kim Jones以极具当代感的风格诠释出两大标志性FENDI系列的魅力光彩，将昔日的经典与当下的时尚相融汇，透过全新的视角重新审视品牌经典。
Inspired by Delfina Delettrez walking into the Roman headquarters dressed in a printed blouse stolen from her mother’s wardrobe, Jones excavated the house’s history to rediscover Spring/Summer 1986: a celebration of Karl Lagerfeld’s love for the artistic movement. “The best place to explore the FENDI archives is through the Fendi wardrobes,” notes Jones. “And these are collections which, although they come from the past, feel very now.”
当Delfina Delettrez步入罗马总部时，身上那件偷偷从母亲的衣橱中借来的印花衬衫令Jones脑中灵感闪现，他随即启程追溯FENDI的时装演化史，重新品味1986年的春夏系列：一场献给Karl Lagerfeld深深痴迷的艺术运动。Jones指出：“探索FENDI历史的最佳方式便是重温历代Fendi家的衣橱。这些时装虽然来自过去，却散发出强烈的新鲜感。”
Reworking and pairing the geometric prints and sartorial styling of 1986 with the diaphanous lightness of Autumn/Winter 2000, what emerges is a diametric exploration of strength and of softness – a runway of powerful women in beautiful clothes. “It’s a wardrobe designed for every aspect of a woman’s life, for every generation,” Jones says. “And it all started with Delfina.”
将2000秋冬的轻透质感注入1986年的几何印花与精裁设计，并对其进行改造与混配，尝试演绎刚柔之间的奇妙对立与统一——将柔美的时装设计与独立的女性形象融为一体。Jones表示：“本季时装旨在呈现女性生活中的每一个侧面，强调跨越不同世代的普适体验。这一切都源于Delfina的启发。”
“It brings me directly to the history of my family. I saw these prints on myself; Kim saw them on Delfina,” explains Silvia Venturini Fendi. “What interests me the most about fashion is when it isn’t something just for the moment – and with FENDI, that is always the case, because it is never banal. There is always a story behind each piece, something a little different.”
Silvia Venturini Fendi坦言：“它们立刻勾起我对家族的回忆，这些熟悉的印花，都是我曾经穿过的款式，现在Kim又在Delfina身上见到了。所谓时装，最值得回味的一点在于它并不只为某时某刻而存在，FENDI的设计就是这样，不带一丝一毫的平淡乏味，每件衣服背后都蕴藏着故事，亦有一些非比寻常之处。”
Through wisps of chiffon tucked into elegant tweeds; delicate slip dresses paired with long cashmere gloves; stock shirting corseted into hyper-feminine forms; masculine tailoring abbreviated into cropped jackets, a new equilibrium is found. Classic FENDI utilitarianism – an irreverent unison of form and function – is inbuilt into garments with transformative functionality: a blazer detaches into a tailored gilet; a pocketed belt is designed to both cinch the waist and hold a phone. FENDI’s illusory techniques are employed in curled, repurposed mohair that gives the illusion of shearling, or shaved shearling that appears like fur. The O’Lock print, first seen as part of the Autumn/Winter 2022 menswear collection, is translated into womenswear with ethereal lightness. “There are no barriers, no divisions at FENDI,” says Silvia. “Because it’s a family.”
丝丝缕缕的雪纺衫夹入优雅的粗花呢服装；精致的吊带连衣裙搭配山羊绒长手套；平凡的衬衫被改制为极为柔美的束身上衣；男士精裁外套变为精悍利落的短身夹克，一种全新的均衡状态就此确立。FENDI特有的实用传统——不拘一格地追求形式与功能的统一——于设计中催生出可自由转化的功能形态：西装夹克精简为精裁无袖夹克；配有口袋的腰带在收束腰身的同时还可存放手机。梦幻匠心的FENDI工艺，将卷曲的改良版马海毛呈现出羊毛皮的质感，又赋予短绒羊毛皮厚密的皮草外观。而初次出现在2022秋冬男装系列中的O’lock印花则被转化为飘逸的女装。Silvia指出：“FENDI是一个大家庭，没有区隔，不设界限。”
In accessories designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi, the house’s dedication to craftsmanship is expressed through new chapters of the ‘hand in hand’ project, alongside intarsia fur iterations of the FENDI First and oversized shopper. In celebration of the Baguette’s 25th anniversary, three of its beloved previous editions are revived: in cashmere, in shearling-lined leather and in intarsia mink.
在Silvia Venturini Fendi设计的配饰中，品牌通过 “hand in hand”项目的全新篇章，以及皮草镶嵌工艺制成的FENDI First手袋与超大号购物手袋，来传达出对于手工技艺的推崇。为庆祝Baguette诞生25周年，FENDI运用新材质精心复刻了三款倍受喜爱的手袋：山羊绒款、羊毛皮加衬皮革款与嵌花水貂皮款。
In jewellery designed by Delfina Delettrez, monograms are supersized into ear cuffs while tennis bracelets are quietly inset with baguette crystals for an allusion to the FF logo. Strung from pendants and suspended as earrings, the Master Key motif is introduced. “It unlocks everything, every door,” smiles Delettrez. “Clearly, the FENDI archive.”
由Delfina Delettrez设计的珠宝中，全耳式耳环表面刻有醒目的logo标识，网球手链则以沉静莹润的长方直角水晶嵌饰致敬FF logo。吊坠与耳环迎来全新的万能钥匙（Master Key）主题元素。Delettrez笑着说道：“它能解锁一切，打开每一扇门。显而易见，这亦是一把开启FENDI宝藏的秘钥。
